We spent two nights in Zagreb after sailing the archipelago. It was eerily quiet as most locals had vacated the city to head to the coast for summer! The centre is split into the Upper Town – red roofs and cobblestones – and the Lower Town, made up of baroque and art deco buildings.

In the Upper Town we stumbled across the changing of the guard ceremony. It was a full on affair that lasted about 20 minutes and included a lot of dancing, shouting and rifle movements!

The beautiful St Mark’s church:There were a lot of quirky museums in Zagreb including the museum of mushrooms (closed when we tried to visit), museum of torture (we stayed away), and the museum of broken relationships. The latter was a bizarre mix of heartbreaking and funny tales alongside letters and artefacts people all over the world had saved from their past relationships.

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